A brief overview of Tangail’s handloom saree

When we hear about the handloom saree, the first name that comes to mind is Tangail. This is because the memories of our mothers, aunts, grandmothers, and great-grandmothers have been intertwined with it for a long time. The history of the handloom industry in Bangladesh is very old, and Tangail’s handloom industry is one of the largest components of that rich history. The expert artisans of Tangail have been making various types of clothes for generations. The famous travelers Ibn Battuta and Hiuen Tsang have mentioned the Tangail handloom industry in their travelogues. At present, Tangail’s reputation spreads worldwide for its handloom sarees. 

History: Until today, we could not ascertain the reliable history of Tangail’s handloom sarees. According to historians, their dependence on the weaving industry was somewhat akin to that of nomads. Their ancestors used to reside on the banks of the Indus River, and from there, they would wander around in different places in search of a livelihood. During the reign of King Lakshmana Sena, a part of them migrated to the Indian subcontinent. Some settled in and around Dhamrai and Tangail in pursuit of a livelihood. Those who came to Dhamrai changed their professions, but those who settled in Tangail continued to maintain the traditional livelihood of their ancestors. Since that time, handloom weavers have become prominent in this region, a view supported by historians. Additionally, we learn that the Tangail handloom industry flourished in the late nineteenth century. The weavers of Tangail sarees are primarily descendants of the traditional Muslin weavers.

Characteristics: The main characteristic is the weaving pattern on the border of the saree. In Tangail sarees, there is fine craftsmanship on the fabric from the beginning to the end. While other sarees typically measure 10–12 hands in length, Tangail sarees are made to be 14 hands in length. To create these sarees, threads of 100, 80, 82, and 84 counts are commonly used. They feel quite soft and comfortable to wear and last for a long time.

Center of Production: By hearing the name, you can understand where this saree is produced. However, this saree is not found everywhere except in certain places in Tangail. A special class of weavers from Bajitpur and Pathrail regions in Tangail has been making these kinds of sarees for generations. Among the 11 upazilas and one thana of Tangail district, Tangail Sadar, Kalihati, Nagarpur, and Sakhipur upazilas are areas abundant in handloom weaving traditions. In addition to these, Bhuapur Upazila has a handloom industry. Moreover, there is the usage of handlooms in many more villages. However, the number of such handlooms that produce the traditional sarees of Tangail is less than 20,000. These traditional sarees are primarily produced in the villages of Bajitpur, Pathrail, Nolshunda, Chandi, Bishnupur, and Binnafair.

The weavers of Tangail produce various types of sarees, including:

1.   Cotton sarees

2.   Half-silk sarees

3.   Soft-silk sarees

4.   Silk Jamdani sarees

5.   Gas-mercerized sarees

6.   Twisted silk sarees

7.   Dangoo sarees

8.   Balucherri sarees

And so on. 

Additionally, there are two types of looms used for weaving the sarees of Tangail.

1.   Chittaranjan loom or fine loom

2.   Hand loom (known as khot khoti loom)

These two types of looms are used to create sarees in various colors and designs with different names. For example, Jamdani or Soft Silk, Half-Silk, Tangail BT, Baluchari, Jaripar, Hazarbuti, Sutipar, Katki, Swarnachuri, Anarkali, Devdas, Kumkum, Sananda, Nilambari, Mayurkanthi, and sarees of regular quality.

The original saree of Tangail refers to the cotton saree. According to Bengali social customs, three types of sarees used to be woven in this region earlier. For widows, there were “than sarees,” and for married women and young girls, there were “Nakshi par and Buti sarees.” These sarees were woven using a handloom, locally known as khot khoti.

Design: The special aspect that is noticeable in the design of Tangail sarees is the textured pattern created with colorful threads, complementing the design on the border. Previously, twine thread was used for decoration in this design. Nowadays, materials like rayon, gold thread, and metallic threads are being used along with it. In combination with these threads, various natural designs such as flowers, birds, vines, leaves, etc., along with different geometric designs, are created.

Weaving Process: Around 40 threads are controlled by a jacquard machine. There is no limitation on this machine. The weaving process is highly complex and delicate. This jacquard machine can control 1000 threads, and it weaves extremely precise and intricate patterns. It uses nylon threads instead of a harness. Numerous hooks are attached instead of the frame for control. The design that will be woven on the fabric or border is made on a punch card or a card specifically designed with holes according to the design. Hooks are attached to the holes in the design on the punch card. With the help of this punch card, each thread is controlled to create the desired design. When the design drawn on the card is woven into the fabric, the card falls off. Then, the process begins with another card for a new section of the design. In this way, the design continues to form gradually. Threads come down to weave the fabric. Imported threads are generally used for weaving this fabric.

The usage of Tangail saree: The diverse Tangail saree is not only worn for ceremonial occasions but also holds equal significance as formal or casual attire. There was a time when handloom sarees were exclusively worn as middle-class garments; however, preferences have also undergone a transformation with the passage of time. In warm weather, the modern woman’s first choice is the handloom saree. Tangail’s handloom sarees receive unique appreciation during seasonal festivals.

The popularity of handloom sarees extends from an ordinary village girl to working ladies and even celebrities. Not only are they valued for comfort, but contemporary sarees also possess uniqueness in terms of design and a variety of colors.

Apart from Bangladesh, this saree has a reputation in various countries, including different European and American countries, Japan, Saudi Arabia, and some states of India.