It
has been drizzling, accompanied by a frigid wind outside. At this moment, what
Bengalis expect the most before going to sleep is a rag with an elegant design,
also known as Nakshi Kantha. Maybe it has an artistic design or not. A rag with
a decorative design has occupied a great place in Bengali folk culture as well
as village cottage industries.
The
tradition of making a nakshi kantha at the time of childbirth continues today.
In some villages of Bengal, the tradition of welcoming new guests with a new
rag on the occasion of marriage or any festival like a social function is
observed. A rag with an elegant design is also listed as a gift while sending
the daughter to her father-in-law's house.

In
Bengal, the rainy season continues for a long time. At this time, fields are
inundated with rain water, and outside work remains limited. This time, village
women get some relief from work. In their leisure time, Bengali women gather
around and gossip, while chewing betel leaf and betel nut, and sewing a nakshi
kantha with a decorative design has been an age-old tradition in Bengali
households. With the rapid change in village society, this type of
socialization is going to be changed. Still now, village women do decorative
designs on rags from afternoon to evening while chatting. With unparalleled efficiency,
pictures of trees, birds, and leaves are depicted on rags. Sometimes the story
of happiness and sorrow comes to light on a rag with an artistic design.
Sometimes women portray the stories of ancient manuscripts they heard under a
dim lantern.
Though
two Bengals are divided by barbed wire, similarities in the pattern of sewing
and ornamental design are found in two Bengals on rags because this art
originated long before the division. So, the decorative rag has become immortal
in Bengali proverbs, stories, songs, and poems. In the Bengali language, there
is the popular adage "Dreaming to become rich lying on a torn quilt"
(equivalent to the English adage "Building a castle in the air"). At
the same time, there is the famous dramatized Bengali verse narrative
"Nakshi Kanthar Math" written by folk poet Jasimuddin. The narrative
verse shows the creation of love and grief created with every stitch made on an
embroidered quilt. This verse is the everlasting story of Rupai and Saju's
love.
The
name of an enduring chronicle is "Nakshi Kanthar Math." After
marriage, the love story of Rupai and Saju did not last long. Rupai became a
fugitive. While eagerly waiting for her husband, Saju started sewing a rag with
an artistic design for the rest of her life. Days, months, and years pass in
this manner. Saju continued to stitch on the rag with an elegant design. She
portrayed so many stories on the rag with an artistic design, but Rupai did not
come back. Saju spent her whole life in this way. When Saju’s sewing on a rag
with an ornamental design was finished, she requested her mother to strew it on
her grave after death. After long days, the dead body of a foreign flute player
was found beside the rag with an artistic design, covering the grave of Saju.
At
midnight, somebody noticed in the field
In
the space, someone is hoisting a rag with an artistic design
That
person is playing a sad tune with his flute
From
village to village, they commiserate with that profound anguish.”
(Nakshi
Kanthar Math by Jasimuddin)
In
this way, the women of Bengal have stitched rags with elegant designs in the
estrangement of their husbands or beloveds. Reminiscences of relatives or
family members living abroad have become vivacious on the texture of rag with
artistic design. Someone could be able to present a new rag with an ornamental
design to their near and dear ones, while other people like Rupai and Saju
would not be able to do it.
Inside and outside of
a rag:
A
rag with a decorative design has usage in both Bengal. The culture of quilt
sewing is scattered in all the villages of Bangladesh, comprising Mymensingh,
Faridpur, Jashore, and Khulna. In West Bengal, Assam, and Bihar in India,
verities of rags with artistic designs are found. Suzani rag with an elegant
design from Bihar has geographical recognition in the international arena
though in the same name and almost the same type of rag with an elegant design
is found in the Rajshahi area of Bangladesh.
Somewhat rag and old sarees, lungi, dhoti, or bed covers
are used for making rags with decorative designs, but sarees have a special
loftiness for making them. Old clothes need to be washed first, then use
starch. Sometimes, depending on choice or order and based on depth, three to
seven sarees are used in a single rag with an artistic design.
Apart from rags with artistic designs, normal rags
without artistic designs are seen in the villages. Where artistic design’s
vanity is absent, there necessity is the main thing. Rags with artistic designs
are made after sewing by accumulating old clothes. Around the rag, a strong
stitch is done as it would not rend easily. Sewing rags with elegant designs
are made somewhat coarse and thick in order to protect from cold. Rags with the
ornamental design of northern areas like Rajshahi and Chapai Nawabganj are
thick. Parallel to our local quilt, comforter or Blanket rag with ornamental
design has extra grandeur of protecting from cold.
Designs of decorative
rag:
Frequently,
artistic designs of flowers, birds, and leaves are drawn on the rag with
artistic designs by the artists in their own interests. Many people follow the
artistic design on the rag of their mother or grandmother. Characters from
history, folklore, and village ancient manuscripts, as well as religious
characters and much advice, add variety to rags with artistic design. On the
artistic design of Jainamaz for offering prayer or Gilaf of the Quran, images
of mosques or tombs, lines of religious books, stars, and the moon can be seen.
But
there are many artistic designs, which are found hither and tither in many
houses of Bengal for thousands of years. Philosophic resources of artistic
design are found in the Muslim, Hindu, and Buddhist religions. In all cases, it
is not evident that artistic designs are portrayed on the basis of that
philosophic theory or symbol. In many cases, it is spread out family-wise for
its beautiful design. Sometimes artistic design is preserved by stitching it on
a small handkerchief. Eventually noticing that design, the next generation can
reinstate that. Sometimes some innovation from the next generation enriched
that artistic design.
One
such famous artistic design is a lotus or wheel surrounding a circle. This type
of artistic design can be found not only on rags or handkerchiefs, but it is
also a very important architectural design in India. Often lotus encircling a
circle on a rag with an artistic design is found. Besides that, the artistic
design of the wheel is found on a rag.
Trees
and leaves:
The
artistic design of trees and leaves has occupied a remarkable place in the
Indian cottage and handicraft industries. Parallel to human beings, horses,
peacocks, and the picture of other animals are depicted on rags with an elegant
designs. In some rags, along with artistic design, the first letters of the
name of a near or dear one are seen.
It
is difficult to find out the philosophical source or confine it to a
checkerboard of rags with artistic design for its diversification. Every day,
new dimensions are added to this traditional industry. Artistic design is not
limited to rags only. Artistic designs like trees, leaves, flowers, and birds,
which are found in rags, the same design is also found on table cloths,
handkerchiefs, caps, pillows, and bed covers.
How long does it take?
A
rag with an artistic design cannot be sewn in a single day. Gradually, its
artwork has to be enhanced. It is mentioned before that once it was the leisure
accompany of a Bengali woman. There is a precedent for presenting it at any
adoration festival or any other function. It takes 7 to 15 days to make a
medium-sized rag with an elegant design. A large or complicated design can be
made in more than one month.
Economic and cultural
value:
Everyone,
from the poor to the middle class, valued it because it could be transformed
into a new one by combining old clothes and artwork on its texture. But in
modern society, its economic value to the upper class is newly illustrated. For
a long period, in the eyes of the upper class, rags with artistic designs were
a form of cold protection. There was a practice of the Bengal upper class of
making requisitioned rags with elegant designs in times of need. Over time, a
cultural appeal is created for flawless artwork on rags with artistic design
texture. Eventually, its economic value has increased. As a result, there is
ample opportunity to establish a small industry producing ornamental rags.
Professional handicraftsmen were once rare because this industry grew out of
amusement or necessity. So, due to the changing in socio-economic conditions,
rags with the artistic design were about to be annihilated. For centuries, the
existence of a valuable rag with an artistic design was unknown. Attempts have
been made to turn rag weaving into a small industry. Elegant design on rag is
not only a distinct needle stitch on rag texture, but also on each rag texture,
a story of love and a story of sorrow is hidden. Each rag with an ornamental
design is the symbol of a lost story in the pathway of Bengal.